Lucchese Fit Guide

Lucchese creates exceptional handmade products using time-honored craftsmanship principles perfected since 1883. As part of our process, Lucchese artisans build and inspect all boots by hand to ensure extraordinary fit, comfort and style.

To help you achieve and enjoy the unrivaled Lucchese fit, we developed this Fit Guide with key steps for fitting, choosing and wearing the perfect pair of Lucchese boots.

The Lucchese Fit


For a properly fitted Lucchese boot, the best way to begin the measurement process is with a Brannock device. By using the slider on the Brannock to measure the foot’s arch length, you will always get within one half-size of the correct measurement.

Women's Size Conversions Men's Size Conversions

Ladies boots are normally sized in A, B and C widths, with B being the average width.

Men’s boots are sized in B, D and EE width, with D being the average.

A general rule of thumb is the further you get from the letter A, the wider the boot is.


Unlike a traditional shoe with laces, the only thing a boot has to hold it securely to the foot is the instep. It is what determines whether or not the boot fits.

If the instep is too tight, move on to a wider width. If the instep is too loose, the boot will slip excessively in the heel and you need to try a narrower width.


When you move, run or walk, you bend your foot at its widest part, otherwise known as the ball of the foot.

If the boot is too short for the foot, the ball of the foot will sit too far forward and force the toes into the front of the boot.

Ideally, the ball of your foot will fit in between the widest part of the boot. Contrary to popular belief, the ball of the foot runs at a slight angle to a shoe, not a perpendicular line.


A boot will initially slip a small amount in the heel, typically around 1/4 to 1/2 inch, which is necessary for a proper fit.

On a new boot, the thick leather outsole is stiff and doesn’t flex a great amount. The more the boot is worn and the outsole is flexed, the more the slip will minimize.

Over time, the hard leather heel counter will form to the shape of your heel when repeatedly exposed to the natural heat and moisture of the foot.

Toe Box

Never press down on the toe box area to see where your toes end. This can permanently damage a pair of boots.

Remember that if the boot is not snug over the instep, it could cause the foot to slide down too far into the front of the boot. This will result in a false reading of the boot being too short. Should this be the case, try something more narrow.

Calf Measurement

Traditional western boots from Lucchese will be 12 or 13 inches tall and go up in 1 inch increments to 18 inches for Polo and Cavalry style boots. If you try on a boot and notice the top wrinkles around the upper ankle area, it’s because the boot is too tight around your calf.

To measure your calf:

(1) Take the height measurement of the boot measuring from the top of the heel, up the side seam, to the top of the pull strap.

(2) With your bare foot flat on the floor, measure the same distance (i.e., the height of the boot you just measured) up the side of your leg.

(3) At the proper height, take a tight circumference measurement around your leg. This will give you the appropriate calf measurement according to the height of the boot.

Women's Calf Measurement Chart Men's Calf Measurement Chart

Boot Anatomy

How to Put on a Boot

Wearing a brand new boot can feel strange for the uninitiated. To correctly put on a Lucchese boot and assess how it fits, follow the steps below.

Step 1

Locate the two pull straps and put your fingers through both of them.

Open the throat of the boot by pulling the pull straps out from center.

Step 2

Stand up when putting on your boots. Your body weight helps get your foot into the boots.

There may be occasions where it is difficult to turn past the throat of the boot near the inside of the heel.

Pull on the boot as hard as necessary, using the pull straps. Don’t worry, the pull straps can withstand a strong pull.

Step 3

Pull firmly until your foot snaps into place.

Pay attention to two key things:
(1) Your instep should be snug. This is normal and important for good arch support and an accurate fit.

(2) Until the leather outsole breaks-in, there will be slippage in the heel. As you wear the boot, the heel counter will conform to your foot with each wear, but should always have slight slippage in order to remove the boot from your foot.

Breaking in Your Boots

If you’ve consulted our Fit Guide and selected boots that are properly sized to your foot, they won’t require a great deal of effort to break-in. Be patient and allow the boot time to naturally form to the shape of your foot.

As for stretch, the amount will depend on the leather the boot is made of.

Soft leathers, such as goat or cowhide, will have more elasticity than an exotic such as alligator or lizard.

Exotic boots, like alligator or ostrich, should be fitted with little to no additional stretching needed.

Caring for Your Boots

To preserve the appearance of your handmade boots, we recommend you follow the standard process below (clean, condition, polish, protect), depending on what kind of leather your Lucchese product features.

exotic leather: caiman, elephant, hippo, lizard, ostrich, python
  • clean / Brush off dirt or dust with a damp cloth or soft brush.
  • condition / Apply an exotic leather conditioner to your boots in several thin layers.
  • polish / Apply a neutral or matching cream based polish, buff with a soft cloth.
  • protect / Apply a non-silicone water and stain protector.
  • notes on snakeskin

    Do not use polish on rattlesnake.
    On snakeskin boots, be sure to go with the grain of the scales when cleaning, conditioning and protecting.

smooth leather
  • clean / Brush off dirt or dust with a damp cloth or soft brush.
  • condition / Apply a leather conditioner.
  • polish / Apply a neutral or matching cream based polish, buff with a soft cloth.
  • do not protect
suede / stonewashed leather
  • before wearing / Treat new boots with a non-silicone water and stain protector.
  • clean / Brush dirt and dust off with a damp cloth or soft brush.
  • do not polish
  • protect / Apply a non-silicone water and stain protector.
  • notes on suede

    Be sure to store suede boots in a way that they can breathe. Keep them away from light and damp environments.

    If your suede boots get wet, soak up excess moisture with a clean towel, then allow the suede to dry naturally. While boot trees can expedite drying, never use a heat source to speed up the process.

    Use a nail file or a wire bristle brush to remove dry mud and scuff marks. Be gentle, using delicate strokes

Other General Preservation Tips
  • Use edge dressing to make outsoles and heels look like new.
  • Let boots dry at room temperature after you clean them.
  • Do not store boots in cold or damp places as boots can mildew.
  • USE BOOT TREES to maintain boots’ shape (see boot tree guide).
Regarding cedar boot trees
  • Daily use of a cedar boot tree will help maintain the boots’ original shape and prevent them from curling. Additionally, feet typically perspire an eighth of a cup of moisture every day. Left unchecked, the moisture is permanently absorbed into the boot lining, decreasing the life of the boots. By placing your boots on a tree every night, moisture is absorbed into the tree and the cedar aroma naturally deodorizes any odors.